Monday, July 2, 2007

Beverage Dept. at Golden Farms



Golden Farms, straddling Burbank and Glendale



I have long been tempted based, on the sheer size to stop at Golden Farms and found myself on San Fernando Road fortuitously and stopped by last week. It is really huge and funky but a veritable treasure trove if you can find a shopping cart with four working wheels. There’s a great assortment of fresh locally made baked goods, lots of interesting frozen items and a carryout section where I ordered two carry-out sandwiches, chicken and beef. They came on mediocre but freshly heated french bread with pickle and a variety of seasonings and fresh kabob meat and were absolutely delicious. If this were on a fresh baguette, it would be my new favorite sandwich but even on the somewhat squishy extant roll, it is a contender. There was a huge jar of dehydrated shallots, something I’d never seen before. It was explained that they are rehydrated and mixed with either lebni or yogurt. I asked the name of the dish and was told it’s called "shallots and yogurt" and lo and behold, that’s how it was labeled at the service deli. The deli itself (and the meat and fish counters too) was kind of dicey and there was something for sale which obviously showcased canned peas. Nevertheless, the shallots and yogurt was a fresh summer revelation on the store brand and un-greasy pita chips, as was the eggplant and pepper salad I scored. The produce department was heavy on good looking and inexpensive herbs and enormous barrels of beautiful freshly roasted nuts certainly beckoned too.


Golden Farms
6501 San Fernando Road
Glendale 91201
818-242-9220

Grace-Less, but in Groovy Company


While we have been extraordinarily lucky in our marriage, our anniversary dinners the past two years have been less successful. We both love Providence but last year, the wine pairing was a bit ill advised. I am a light weight and poured most of mine of into my husband’s glass which resulted for him becoming quite inebriated (only the second time I have seen him so in nearly 20 years) and he was returned home curled in the fetal position in the back seat of my car, so this year we decided on Grace, which we haven’t frequented a while but both liked very much in the past.
I have often experienced a decline in a restaurant when the owner branches out and opens a second shop, as has Grace owner Neal Fraser with BLD. The only local chef I can think who seems immune from this is Wolfgang Puck but I think Susan and Mary Sue and Joachim despite their dynasties, have ever really done anything as good as the original City or Patina. I had high hopes though for Neal Fraser and Grace, as it is such a cozy spot and I loved the take out pastry, which continued the magic to the next morning.
It is still a handsome space and filled on a Saturday night. I browsed the large selection of starters and designed a tasting menu myself of five appetizers I thought we would both enjoy and told the waiter to have the kitchen serve them in the order the chef saw fit. Instead of rewarding my enthusiasm for diving into their menu with such bravado, the waited seemed flummoxed and had to come back to the table again, just to make sure he got it all straight.
We were first presented with a trio of fish: tuna tartare with ponzu, snapper with yuzu gelee and North Sea Eel with hijiki and hot mustard. It was quite dainty at $23.00 but well contrasted and flavorful.
Next, we were served tempura fried squash blossoms. The version I had at Mozza was one of the single best restaurant dishes I have eaten this year and the version of I had at Grace, was the absolute single worst. It tasted like the gloppy tempura from a mix and was limp and oil sodden, not fried at a high enough temperature and no one asked why most of the $17 item was virtually uneaten on the plate.
The house cured wild king salmon and smoked brook trout showed off high quality ingredients but the presentation was a tad sloppy and while I wouldn’t call it an unsuccessful dish, we were still waiting to be wowed.
Fresh sardines are one of my favorite foods and I was thrilled to see sauteed Monterey Bay Sardines with artichokes on the menu. This, simple and satisfying was one of the better realized dishes, but again, the plating consistently seemed hurried and less spot on than previous visits.
Our final dish was organic carrot risotto which tasted delicious and deep but was garnished by one another of those utterly embarrassing fried squash blossoms.
Dinner was a plate of yawn inducing cookies which made me realize what a brilliant baker Hayden Ramsey is at humble Square One, so far to the east and so much more wallet friendly. Oh, and the breakfast pastry I was so looking forward to? Only available now from BLD.

Wednesday, June 13, 2007

Queasy Pollo Campero Protein Fix


Found myself starving before opening the concessions stand for our theatre group in Hollywood and knew that if I didn't get some dead flesh in me I was liable to o.d. on chocolate chip cookies so I picked up a two piece (leg and thigh) meal which came with a side of coleslaw so vile I will not speak of it. I added a side of (soppy but flavorful in that greaseball way) fried bananas. Yes. I am an asshole to order fried bananas on a chocolate cookie avoidance mission. The buzz on Campero has so died down, I forgot it was a fried, rather than grilled (ala Pollo Loco) product. I haven't eaten KFC in many moons but in the realm of taste and sensory memory this gnarly, gristly, grease soaked stuff was reminiscent of the Colonel, only with more chili powder and salt. And my 2 pieces of chicken, green regurgitation that will be not be named, gushy bananas and a beverage cost over 9 bucks.

The Lives I've Spent at Porto's



I am one of the concessions girls for the Silverlake Children's Theatre Group and because were running a show called, Havana, Porto's seemed a logical choice. I hadn't been to the Glendale location since the expansion and now it is truly city sized. I noticed that they even have their own food manufacturing plant as the white chocolate slabs used to add text to a cake, were labelled a Porto's product. It takes a long time to get through to Portos via phone but when I did my order was taken efficiently. We had 6 individual orders over two weekends. The parking was difficult most times. From checking in to receiving pre-ordered products look less than a half hour on the best day and nearly two hours on the worst. Once my order was still not ready, even when I arrived after the scheduled time. Twice my order was not wrapped according to my (quirky albeit clearly delineated) specifications. Considering the amazing volume of business I guess the operation is surprisingly efficient and that staff are pleasant natured.




We ordered feta and tomato and medio noche sandwiches. The feta sandwiches were surprisingly good but the Porto's bread has a dry quality and doesn't blow me away. We also ordered beef, cheese and chorizo empanadas. The beef were quite popular but the word of mouth on the chorizo wasn't good. This is not food I would drive out of my way for but it is inexpensive and good to order in high volume for events and occasions . During my wait I saw many elaborate cakes. These are reasonably priced attractive but commercially produced bake goods and nothing from the bakery I've tried has been even marginally delicious. I bought a showy fruit tart as a birthday surprise and while it had a pornographic presence, the custard tasted like a canned product and the fruit was so unctuous with glaze it passed out of the realm of fresh and into something that should float in jello.




Portos in a phenomena and such a pulsing center of action and energy I can't really fault it but there isn't a food or bakery treat that really calls to me, it's all seems rather work-a-day. I have yet to try the Burbank location. I am told the crowds are far smaller but they have less of a production area and less flexibility with regard to certain food and bakery orders than Glendale.




Glendale Location


315 North Brand Blvd.Glendale, CA 91203 tel. (818) 956-5996


(818) 956-069
Burbank Location


3614 W Magnolia Blvd.Burbank, CA 91505 (818) 846-9100

Raul's Highland Park-Muy Amable! Tacos & Wi Fi






Obscenely fat little tacos of delicious chicken and beef that was thoughtfully seasoned and complicated. Also, really satisfying is an incredibly earthy sinewy rich and funky birria. Enchiladas seem often available as a special and I have a hankering to try them next. Rightous owners.



Raul's


4017 N. Figueroa


323-227-8549


Closed Thursdays

Monday, June 11, 2007

New at the Atwater Farmers Market



Because I'm such an early bird I usually do the Hollywood Market but Atwater, which starts at ten, is really great because the parking is so easy and the selection gets better every week.

I was thrilled to see the South Central Farmers--who believe in growing their vegetables BIG and selling them CHEAP and nothing is ever short of delicious--have a booth now with wonderful greens and radishes. Delmy, the famous Pupusa maker at Hollywood has sent her absolutely adorable daughter to spin off a satellite in Atwater. There was no line this week but I predict that shortly to change.

I have never tried the locally roasted coffee sold at Atwater because I am turned off that samples are served with non-dairy creamer. Is it worth tasting anyway?